Ushigoro Kan Gotanda-ten

One reported progression begins with lightly seared meat sushi and moves on to fragrant grilled beef tongue, building anticipation for the meal at うしごろ貫 五反田店. Made from a cut available in only small quantities from each animal, the “Kiwami no Tan” is massaged with a special salt sauce. Its satisfying bite and rich umami stand out. The group’s signature kurashita sukiyaki pairs juicy meat coated in a sweet-savoury sauce with a rich egg. Enjoy it with the accompanying bite-sized serving of rice for an indulgent mouthful.

A range of cuts, from lean meat to offal

Rare cuts such as uchihira, kuri and harami, served with salt, let you appreciate the differences in the meat’s natural fibres and the juices each cut releases. There is also a selection of carefully prepared offal, including kopuchan, heart and gatsu-shin, whose crisp, springy texture is particularly pleasing. These options let the meal continue without feeling too heavy. For a chance to try several cuts in smaller portions, a course that combines salt-seasoned and sauced dishes is a reassuring option.

Sake pairings and a soothing finish

Carefully selected Japanese sake, including tasting sets and distinctive labels, brings another dimension to the meat. The range spans a fragrant, fruit-forward pour and drier styles suited to a meal, offering pleasing pairings for meat with different levels of richness. To finish, choose the house chilled hiyamugi noodles, with their concentrated dashi flavour, or Ushigoro Kan curry, marked by the depth of bonito-stock dashi. A smooth pudding rounds things off. The calm interior includes private rooms, making the setting a comfortable fit for a business meal, an anniversary or another evening when conversation matters.